
I developed the serious fascination for the art of tattoos when I was just starting to pursue a visual arts career in
I then established the Cordillera Artists Central to serve as a venue to help promote the indigenous Cordillera art and culture. In 2007 I encountered Richard Atrero De Guzman a.k.a. “Bahaghari”, an independent photographer/filmmaker. Bahaghari was then an instructor at the
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Tattoos were symbols of male valor: They were applied only after a man had performed in battle with fitting courage, like modern military decorations they accumulated with additional feats. Headhunting was the only reason or purpose for tattooing. From years of research, the process of tattooing are known, the deeper role and function of tattoos are revealed together with their symbols and meanings in their proper context and historical symbolism. Although it became a lost visage in the following century, the tattoos are for complex rites of passage, tribal identity, prestige, power, healing, protection, beauty and reason. (
Caroline Kennedy-Cabrera, in her work among the tribal communities in northern Luzon, believed that women underwent tattooing on their legs, arms, and breasts to enhance their beauty. The men, on the other hand, did so to mark age, bravery, and tribal seniority. In some tribal communities, it was claimed that tattoos had magical qualities; thus, designs of scorpions, centipedes, snakes, and bats were often repeated. (Casal, et. al.)
The Kalinga men, in general, used only armlets and necklaces as ornaments, but their chests, backs, arms, and faces were covered with elaborate and beautiful tattoos. This was true mostly of the men of south Kalinga, as they wore no upper garments. The tattooing imitated the upper garment worn by the men of north Kalinga called silup, reproducing the silup's designs on the arms and shoulders. (Casal, et. al.)
Tattooing for the
In the early years, young men and women in the Cordillera were usually tattooed by an elder who occupied a high position in the community. The men who returned from war with their enemy's head, however, were allowed to get their tattoos by a maingal (warrior). The women would mostly get their tattoos at a young age to make them more attractive, while the men saw tattoos as a mark of manhood. (
The Kalingas wore batek in the past because of the scarcity of clothing. But now, with the abundance of clothing, tattooing has lost its necessity for the younger generation. There has been no transfer of this knowledge to the younger generation. The old mambateks have died.
The bodong is the most admirable and efficient Kalinga institution. It is a peace pact or treaty between two tribes, wherein the Pagta or laws on inter-tribal relations are made. The bodong is also the Magna Carta of the Kalingas.
Thus, with the absence of tribal wars, headhunting is no longer practiced. And the young Kalingans are not even interested in this old tradition, as shown by their refusal to have tattoos. It is a lost tradition. And the last generation of tattooed people in the Kalingas who are mobile testaments of the Cordillera culture have aged, their skin art left only to be documented.
With the full enforcement of the bodong, and headhunting no longer practiced, modern education and concepts of decoration contributed to the fading out of the practice of tattooing. Beauty has come to be defined not in terms of body tattoos, but through commercial beauty aids. The only testimony now to the practice of the art of batek is the few remaining living elders who have various bodily tattoos. With their deaths, this ancient practice shall be buried with them, unless the new generation starts to appreciate and continue to share the tradition.
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Soon it was the year 2009. I have long gone back to
I was invited to an art forum at the Green Papaya Art Projects in
Then, was it déjà vu? Or another premonition of a woman with bejeweled arms? Climbing the plight of stairs was someone I used to know. Her face and her surname were familiar. Her tattooed arms and her given name were not. She was introduced as the Philippine’s host for the ASEAN contingent and a recipient of a research grant from Arts Network Asia (ANA) in 2004. She is Senior Culture & Arts Officer of the
After the art forum, I approached her. After which came the upwelling of yesteryears wanting to be remembered.
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The Batek and

Joey Martinez
12 November 2011
Note: Click here
to view more photographs
and to read the complete research
Batek Butbut:
The Vanishing Skin Art of the Kalingas.

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